Since my last Toronto Patisserie Walking Tour, I've been planning for a similar tour for chocolateries. My past experience with chocolate tasting leans heavily toward French haute chocolate and more contemporary styles. Therefore I must admit that I'm quite ignorant on other prominent styles such as Belgium, Swiss, German, Italian, or North American. Since most of my favourite chocolateries do not have stores in Toronto, I'm hoping to discover new favourites and to learn a few things about chocolate tasting. Without further ado, I present to you Toronto Chocolaterie Tour.
(note: I have not had a chance to taste ALL the chocolate yet...I will add more tasting notes as I slowly work my way through)
Dessert Lady
20 Cumberland St, Toronto
(416) 924-3223
http://www.dessertlady.ca
(clockwise from top right)
- baileys dark chocolate truffle
- hazelnut crunch enrobed in milk chocolate
- icewine dark chocolate truffle
- vanilla milk chocolate truffle
My tour began at the Bloor/Yonge subway station which is in close proximity to a great number of chocolateries. From the station, walk north on Yonge and turn west on Cumberland will take you to my first stop, Dessert Lady. Dessert Lady is a relative newcomer to the Toronto pastry scene. It's obvious that chef/owner Mandy Kan makes all her products inside this shop. On this chilly February afternoon, I was enveloped by the sweet smell of butter & sugar the second I opened the door. The selection of chocolate is not huge but it does have a few intriguing flavours.
The icewine truffle has a thin shell that is a little uneven at places. The ganache tasted and looked like it is more moist than other truffles I tried which I found surprisingly nice. The icewine flavour was pronounced yet it did not overshadow the flavour from the chocolate. I would say this truffle has a good flavour combination but would benefit from more refinement.
Dinah's Cupboard
50 Cumberland St, Toronto
(416) 921-8112
Just a few doors down from Dessert Lady is the gourmet grocer Dinah's Cupboard that has been a fixture in Toronto for some time. You will not find handmade chocolate here but Dinah's Cupboard carries a good selection of chocolate tablettes from Europe.
What's more interesting though, is that you can find cocoa powder from Valrhona and Michel Cluizel, as well as Mexican chocolate slab for making mexican hot chocolate. The chocolate slab has a distinctive spicy fragrance. To make a cup of hot chocolate, just grate the chocolate slab into a mug and add hot water or milk. The shopkeeper told me that some people like to grate this chocolate directly onto guacamole for that special kick. I checked the ingredient list and it is not made with high quality chocolate as expected. However, as a novelty item, this is quite a lot of fun.
Pusateri's
57 Yorkville Ave, Toronto
(416) 785-9100
http://www.pusateris.com/
Unlike the Avenue Road location, the Yorkville Pusateri's does not have a chocolate counter. However, if you're in the mood for some Neuhaus or Valrhona tablettes, there is a good selection from both brands. There're assorted coffrets from Godiva as well.
Simone Marie Belgian Chocolate
126 Cumberland St, Toronto
(416) 968-7777
http://www.simonemarie.net
Continue to walk west on Cumberland until you reach the heart of Yorkville. Simone Marie is located a few steps down from the sidewalk.
(clockwise from top right)
- Dame Blanche Manon: Fresh cream on a praline base
- Pear Liqueur: Poire Williams liqueur cream enrobed in white chocolate
- Heart: dark chocolate ganache enrobed in dark chocolate
- Chestnut: Milk chocolate and chestnut ganache flavoured with Maraschino
- Coco Manon: Fresh cream with coconut pieces enrobed in dark chocolate (not shown)
Simone Marie has been a fixture on Cumberland for many years. Their selection of chocolate are flown in from Belgium. It is here that I first learn about manon, Belgium-style chocolate with a butter cream centre. The first thing that I noticed was the large variety of white chocolate bonbon available.
The heart truffle has a whisper-thin dark chocolate shell that barely enveloped the exceptionally smooth ganache. The ganache has a hint of liqueur (cognac, perhaps?) that emphasize the pleasantly bitter taste of the chocolate. The base of the truffle was considerably thicker though. The Dame Blanche Manon is quite big compared to other other manons that I bought on this trip...which means there's a lot more of the deliciously creamy buttercream filling! I'm completely impressed by my first introduction to such a wonderful confection. The praline base did not contribute too much flavour though.
Leonidas
50 Bloor St West, Toronto
(416) 362-4439
http://www.leonidas.com
Walk south on Belair until you reach Bloor. Turn east on Bloor until you reach Holt Renfrew. Take the escalator to the basement. Leonidas is located directly across form Holt Renfrew's cafe.
(clockwise from top right)
- Cacao perle: dark chocolate, dark chocolate ganache, dusted with cocoa powder
- Mystère: dark chocolate, pistachio flavour
- Manon café: white chocolate, whole hazelnut, hazelnut paste, and coffee
- Acropole truffle: milk chocolate, crushed shelled walnuts, and hazelnuts with coffee
Located in close proximity to Simone Marie is another Belgium chocolate boutique Leonidas. Their chocolates are also flown in weekly from Belgium. The cacao perle truffle has an exceptionally thick shell (about 4mm). This made for a rather awkward proportion between shell and ganache. I personally think the amount of ganache is too little to really highlight the smoothness of the soft ganache centre typical of truffles. The staff at Leonidas told me that the Manon café is the most popular chocolate in their Belgium store. However, since the Canadian market has a stronger preference for dark chocolate, it's not as popular here. One bite into this chocolate and I understood its popularity. My personal preference also leans towards dark chocolate over white but the sweetness of the white chocolate perfectly complements the buttercream, hazelnut, and coffee combination. The balance of flavour is excellent.
Leonidas also carries a variety of european confections such as stroopwafels. I bought a package of Meli Honigwaffel from Belgium and a package of Kanjers Extra Frote Stroopwafels from Holland.
Teuscher Chocolates
55 Bloor St West (Manulife Centre, inside William Ashley), Toronto
(416) 964-8200
http://www.teuscher.com
The basement of the Holt Renfrew building and the Manulife Centre are connected. Go up to the ground floor and you will find Teuscher inside William Ashley.
(clockwise from top right)
- Champagne truffle enrobed in milk chocolate
- Wine truffle
- Dark chocolate truffle
- Jasmine truffle
The chocolates at Teuscher are flown in weekly from Switzerland. Personally, other than a few local artisan chocolatiers, Teuscher ranks very high on my list of favourite chocolate available in Toronto. The majority of their chocolate selection are dark chocolate but they also have some very good flavour combination that highlight milk chocolate and white chocolate. The champagne truffle is Teuscher's signature product and it's not difficult to understand why. The dark chocolate ganache is laced with unmistakable flavour of champagne. The ganache is enrobed with a milk chocolate shell that balances the flavour beautifully. The dark chocolate truffle is in the shape of a little puck. The dark chocolate shell is of the perfect thickness to offer a slight snap when I bit into the truffle. Just because the ganache centre is not of the runny variety, it doesn't mean the smoothness diminish. In fact, as the ganache slowly melted in my mouth, its fruity flavour unfolded deliciously. Teuscher is definitely one of my favourites.
Eitelbach Pastries
55 Bloor St West (Manulife Centre basement), Toronto
(416) 972-0078
http://www.eitelbach.com/
- Special dark truffle
- Amaretto truffle enrobed in milk chocolate
- Nougat truffle enrobed in milk chocolate
- Noisette crunch truffle treecake truffle petit four
- Baumkuchen in white chocolate
- Banana truffle enrobed in milk chocolate
Nestled in the basement of Manulife Centre is Eitelbach Chocolate, a Toronto company. What's special about Eitelbach is that they are one of the few places in Canada that makes baumkuchen. Compare to the baumkuchens that I had in Japan (and it's VERY popular in Japan), Eitelbach's version tastes more substantial in a good way. The cake comes in two sizes, with a choice of white, milk, or dark chocolate coating.
What about its chocolate though? The special dark truffle has a good proportion of shell vs ganache. Texture-wise, it is also very pleasing. However, in comparison to all my other purchases, the taste of the chocolate lacks nuance. It tastes strongly of dairy with almost a caramel taste. I find the taste of the chocolate very one-dimensional.
The baumkuchen petit four was innocently tasty. Freeing myself of any preconceived notions of a chocolate bonbon or a traditional petit four, I found it very enjoyable...like a very good candy bar. It has a base of baumkuchen layered with hazelnut ganache. The whole thing was enrobed in milk chocolate with some crunchy sugar for textural contrast. I felt like a little kid when I devoured this confection.
I will return to Eitelbach in future for its baumkuchen but probably not for its chocolate. There're simply many other chocolatiers in Toronto that I prefer more.
Stubbe Chocolate
253 Davenport Road, Toronto
(416) 923-0956
http://www.stubbechocolates.com/
Walk north on Avenue Road and turn west on Davenport.
(from left to right)
- Bittersweet truffle
- Mango truffle enrobed in milk chocolate
- Kir Royal truffle: cassis and champagne in white chocolate rolled in cassis sugar.
- Unknown
- Fleur de Biere enrobed in white chocolate
- Special dark truffle: dark chocolate shell rolled in sugar, filled with white, milk, and dark ganache
With stores in Toronto and Ottawa, Stubbe is a German-style Konditorei that has been around since 1845. The first thing that greeted the eye when I entered the store was the various molded chocolate on display. It's very unpretentious but personally I think it took the focus away from the individual chocolate bonbons located further back in the store. Stubbe has a large selection of truffles with some very interesting flavour not found in other chocolateries (such as fleur de biere, gerwurstraminer, kir royale). The feet on the truffles are not particularly small but I did notice that some of the shell has holes punched through by the ganache. This is a problem that I had when I made my own truffles. After I enrobed the ganache with chocolate, the ganache expanded to punch a hole in through the shell. The shell of the bittersweet truffle has noticeably uneven thickness. The taste and texture are not particularly memorable but there's nothing wrong with it really. However, in my head-to-head comparison taste test, it doesn't quite match up to other more excellent truffles.
I heard some very good reviews on Stubbe's German-style cakes. I will probaby return on another day to give them a try.
js bonbons
163 Dupont St, Toronto
(416) 920-0274
http://www.jsbonbons.com
Walk west on Davenport and turn west on Dupont.
(clockwise from top right)
- Sea salted caramel truffle
- Malted nougat & praline truffle
- Tarragon & black pepper truffle
- Coriander & lime truffle
- Peanut butter truffle: dark chocolate peanut butter ganache enrobed in dark chocolate (not shown). Tasted like a very intense version of peanut butter cup. All smooth without the graininess.
Although this branch doesn't serve js bonbons' famous hot chocolate, it is where chocolatier Jen Stone's chocolate school is located. I must say that js bonbons produces the most beautifully shaped truffles in Toronto. Each piece is a perfectly round globe with tiny "feet". Since they do not carry any simple dark chocolate truffle, I used their tarragon & black pepper truffle as the control instead. Both the shell-to-ganache proportion and texture are among the best I've tasted in this trip. The ganache filling is not runny yet it is soft enough to make for a very sexy textural contrast with the tempered shell. The spicy bite from the tarragon and black pepper infused ganache overshadowed the flavour of the chocolate itself so I can't really comment on that aspect. However, as a flavoured truffle, it is a very delicious indeed. JS bonbons is one of my favourite local artisan chocolatiers for sure.
Frangipane Patisserie
215 Madison Ave, Toronto
(416) 926-0303
Continue walking west on Dupont until you reach the Dupont & Madison intersection.
http://www.frangipane.ca
(clockwise from top right)
- French caramel
- Cranberry blackberry port enrobed in dark chocolate
- Lemon anise enrobed in white chocolate
- Raspberry white chocolate ganache
Chocolate is not Frangipane's specialty but since it's so close to js bonbons, it is worth a visit even for a nice little break. I like their more rustic desserts such as the fruit frangipane tart or parisien flan. They have a very small selection of house-made chocolate bonbons which include some very intriguing flavours and stylish appearance.
The gold-dusted cranberry blackberry port truffle looked quite pretty. However, the shell just didn't have the clean snap that I expect from well-tempered chocolate. The shell has slightly uneven thickness but the ganache was nicely smooth. I was hoping for a more tart flavour from the cranberry and blackberry but the fruitiness was rather subtle. I did not like the raspberry white chocolate ganache. On paper, the idea sounds very good. However, instead of a bright fruity tartness, the taste of raspberry was strangely artificial.
The fact that Frangipane does not specialize in chocolate is obvious. The chocolates just don't have that impeccably shiny finish (is it the tempering or is it mishandling?). However, kudos to them for experimenting with interesting flavour combination and going for a contemporary attractive look.
Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut
4242 Dundas St West, Toronto
(416) 234-0611
http://www.bernardcallebaut.com
Board subway at Dupont station and exit at Royal York station. Walk north on Royal York and turn east on Dundas. Benard Callebaut is located in an unassuming strip mall, also home to Bruno's Fine Food.
(clockwise from top)
- Champagne truffle: champagne, dark chocolate ganache
- Canadienne truffle: maple syrup, white chocolate ganache
- Chestnut: chestnut, white chocolate ganache
- Manon: marzipan, walnut, meringue
- Honey: honey, milk chocolate ganache
- Celeste truffle: dark chocolate gananche
The truffles at Bernard Callebaut have a rather rustic appearance not typically associated with high-end chocolate. The Celeste truffle is a little oval covered with chocolate shavings. Because the truffles are smaller than the typical ones, I found the portion of ganache to be too little. The flavour of the chocolate is deep and warm. It's not too complicated yet quite satisfying. However, as far as truffles are concerned, I don't think this is where Bernard Callebaut excels.
The Manon, on the other hand, is a great example that showcases Bernard Callebaut's Belgium roots. Pairing white chocolate with buttercream and nuts, this chocolate is delicious. Personally, I think Leonidas' Manon café is tastier because of the addition of coffee. However, since marzipan also ranks high on my list of favourite ingredients, I would come back to Bernard Callebaut to purchase more of this chocolate in future.
While you're there, don't forget to cross the street to visit Ma Maison for some tasty croissant, pain au chocolat, or sous-vide main courses.
Conspicuously missing from this trip is a visit to SOMA. It is handsdown my favourite chocolaterie in Toronto yet since it is located in the Distillery District, making a stop there in this whirlwind tour without a car (or my rollerblades) is logically tricky to plan.
For the purists out there, if chocolate bonbons are not your cup of tea, there are many places in Toronto where you can get excellent chocolate tablettes. My personal favourites are SOMA Chocolatemaker and The Cheese Boutique as both carry a wide selection from different chocolatiers around the world.
If you would like to give this tour a try, I would love to hear from you and we can compare notes on what we think of the different chocolateries in Toronto!
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